Eating and drinking through the Athenian suburbs of Pagrati and Ilisia
Aug 01, 2023
If you are looking for a change of pace while visiting Athens, and want to eat and drink where the local Athenians go, then Pagrati and Ilisia are the 2 suburbs you need to visit. You may have heard of them, as they are classified as central Athens. Even though that are 5-10 minutes north of the centre.
Pagrati & Ilisia are large in size, but the focus will be on a small pocket where both Pagrati and Ilsia more or less meet and become their own little suburb.
This area is jam packed with restaurants and bars with new additions been added on a regular basis.
How to get to Pagrati and Ilisia
By Taxi
From Syntagma / Plaka you can grab a taxi straight to Pagrati / Ilisia. The taxis will cost around €5-€10 depending on traffic, and should only take 5 minutes.
By Metro
The closest metro station is evangelismos station. It is on the blue line and can easily be reached via Syntagma sqaure metro station
By Foot
If you are up for it, you are able to walk from the centre to Pagrati / Ilisia. It will take around 20-25 minutes depending on the route.
One route is to walk along side Parliament and the war museum. This is along the main street, and you will no when you have arrived to Ilisia when you see the large glass running man statue (you cant miss it!)
The second route is through the National Gardens, which will pop you out at the Panathenaic stadium. Once you come to this impressive site, continue heading north until you reach the National portrait gallery. From there you are able to take any side street into Pagrati.
Best Bars and Restaurants
Ilisia
Cookoovaya
Probably the best "upmarket" restaurant in the area. The food is delicious, the service is amazing and their cocktails are perfect. make sure to book as the restaurant gets very busy, especially during the summer months.
It is more expensive tha most places in the area, but it is well worth it.
Vassilenas
If fine dining and seafood is what you are after, then Vassilenas is the place for you. Excellent food with friendly and professional staff. A great place for a more "fancy" night out.
Vezené
Right next door to Vassilenas, Vezené serves large portions of contemporary wood-fired food based on different regions of Greece.
Lot 51
This is the hot spot of Ilisia. This all day cafe serves a great breakfast and brunch with coffees during the day and turns into a great cocktail bar at night.
It has a great outdoor area and is the perfect spot for a cocktail or 2
Junior Does Wine
Opening around 18 months ago this little wine bar has become a bit of a hot spot for the locals. Serving a wide range of Greek wines, with their Rose wines standing out during the summer months.
Five F's
If you are after some traditional taverna food where the locals go for a large and cheap lunch, then this place is it. They server all the traditional Greek dishes such as pork chop, Greek Salad and dips, but be careful they close once all of the dishes have been sold. This happens quickly, some 3-4pm dont be surprised if this place is already closed!
CV Distillery
Down the road for Cookoovaya, CV distillery is the perfect place to continue your night with some great cocktails (must try the Zombie) and music!
Pagrati
Frater & Soror
Frater & Soror is one of the staples of Pagrati - the restaurants has both indoor and outdoor seating. The outdoor seating is in the square across the road from the restaurant, if you are booking try and book outside!
They serve modern Greek food that is delicious which is accompanied by a great drinks list.
The staff are helpful and very polite.
Mavro Provato
If you can get a table at this restaurant, whether its for lunch or dinner, or both take it! Great traditional Greek dishes with a little twist, and if you like liver, then this is the place to try it!
They also serve some great tsipouro
Tre Sorelle Pizza
One of the best pizza and cocktail restaurants in Athens. They make a great Diavlo pizza and their Negroni is also on par with the pizza.
Lost
If you are looking for a more upmarket meal in Pagrati then lost is your go to. They serve a great selection of modern Greek dishes which is ever changing. You will recognise the dishes on the menu, but the Chefs at lost put their own twist to these dishes.
They have an excellent wine, beer and cocktail list to match their food.
Make sure to book as they are constantly busy!
Hippy 3
Hippy 3 has become the staple for the locals to go grab a drink at night and a great brunch spot. The outdoor seating is perfect for a late summer cocktail and the inside of the bar is also impressive.
Great spot, great staff and great drinks!
Ramon
Right next to Hippy 3 is Ramon. If you are looking for a bite to eat while you drink some organic wine, then Ramon is the place for you. They have some classic meze dishes mixed with a few surprises (Bao Bun?!). Its a cool little spot and the wait staff are very helpful and polite.
OHH Boy
If you are after great coffee and a even better breakfast or brunch, then OHH Boy is the spot for you. They focus more on the organic side of ingredients so their dishes are both tasty and healthy.
Their morning bowls and eggs are great, and they serve some of the best coffee in this little pocket.
Mama Says
Another great spot for Breakfast and brunch. Mama says serves a normal western breakfast of eggs and bacon along with the traditional Greek egg dish Strapatsada (a must try).
Their coffee is great. The cafe is relaxed with a large outdoor area. Its the perfect place for a sunny brunch!
Our list of places to eat and drink is all but a few streets of each suburb. You can literally walk from place to place spending your night eating and drinking and you have yet discover the whole suburbs.